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Nest Box Camera Project Introduction

The bluebird nest boxes which we (Kevin Browne, reserve computer programmer and Sheri Lubin, reserve steward) used for the camera installation have been used by the Western Bluebird and other cavity nesting birds on this reserve for several years. We have installed these nest box cameras for the purpose of observing the behavior of cavity nesting birds. We are currently documenting nesting behavior by taking photos inside the nest boxes which are stored in our archival pages: l

We have approximately 40 nest boxes throughout the reserve which are monitored by Walter Sakai of Santa Monica College and the staff at the James Reserve. For more information on this monitoring and banding project visit the Seasonal Bird Banding, and nest box utilization records at the following page: www.jamesreserve.edu/databases.html

The following is a short version of the nest box camera installation process.

 


Box #21 (2001)
New Design


Box #21 (2001)
New Design

Phase 1:

Planning phase and beginning work phase.

We started the project by choosing the nest boxes which would hold the cameras. We chose box #31 and box #21 because they are the closest to the Trailfinders Lodge laboratory. Box #31 is approximately 120 feet west of the lab. Box #21 is approximately 80 feet east of the lab.

By drawing an installation plan on paper we estimated how much conduit,what type of PVC and electrical box connectors we would need and where and how everything was going to be installed.

After making several trips to the hardware store (and several more later on) we laid out enough conduit, connectors, wire and cable for each proposed trench and nest box camera to make sure we had everything for the project.

We attached some small gauge rope from the lab to the nest box trees for a straight reference line while digging our trench. And, then thought about digging the trench



Box #31 New Design (2001)


Phase 2:

Trenching and wire pulling.

Several days later...

We trenched through 120 feet of mostly decomposed granite (not very decomposed, if you ask us) and fill dirt to box #31. Box #21 required about 80 feet of trenching through forest leaf litter and soil which was full of tree roots. We laid 1" and 2 " PVC conduit in the trenches and pulled telephone wire, shielded coaxial video cable, and a pull string (for possible future use) through the conduits to reach each of nest boxes which are located about 5 feet from the ground and mounted on the trunk of a tree. Box #31 is mounted on an incense cedar tree (Calocedrus decurrens) and box #21 is mounted on a Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa).

We installed 1" PVC with a reducer to 3/4" from the base of the tree into the nest box. We drilled a 3/4" hole into the side of the nest box and inserted the 3/4" PVC elbow into the hole. Unfortunately, all the excess wire and connectors are in the nest box along with the camera. When nesting season is finished we plan to install a small electrical junction box outside of the nest box and put the excess wires and connectors into it so that only the camera and the birds will be in the nest box.

After pulling the wire and gluing the PVC pipes together, we spliced each power wire end with AC to DC power adapter's connector that will then fit into the camera power plug. Afterwards, we spliced the coaxial cable. Connected the middle signal wire and the shielding wire to an RCA plug, being very careful that they do not touch each other at all. If any part of your shielding wire touches the main wire you will not see a signal from your camera.

Be careful when you reconnect your AC to DC adapter's wires that you keep the polarity consistent, otherwise you could burn out your camera. That is why it is important that the wire you use for your power is multicolored in order to know which side of the wire you are connecting the positive and negative wires from your AC to DC adapter. We recommend using telephone wire because it has colored wire, it is relatively inexpensive, it does not stretch as you pull it through your PVC pipes, and it is thick enough to carry low voltage DC power. We also recommend that you solder all your wire connection and then use heat shrink tubes to cover the exposed wires.


Box #21 Last Year (2000)


Box #21 (2001)

 

 

 

Phase 3:

Camera installation.

The camera installation for box #21 and box #31 were basically the same except for power access. The power for box #21 camera was accessed at the heated bird bath outlet which is outside under the multi-feeder station. For box # 31, we brought the power all the way into the lab and connected it to a transformer which is plugged into a surge protector.

The type of camera we used is called a monochrome micro-video board camera with 6 LED I/R Illuminators. The cameras were purchased from www.supercircuits.com. This camera is no longer available from Supercircuits but it can be bought through Circuit Specialists Inc. We chose this type of camera because it is the same type that Mark Stromberg, director of the Hastings Reserve, used in his bluebird nest box cam project. To see his bluebird camera project visit the UC Hastings Reserve at www.hastingsreserve.org/index.htm

We tested both cameras to make sure they worked and were focused correctly before installing them. We achieved this by putting a camera into an old detached nest box and adjusting the focus until we could read writing on the bottom of the box through a LCD pocket television which the camera was plugged into.

In each of the nest boxes we mounted the camera to the top lid of the box so that they are facing downwards. We made some changes to the nest boxes beforehand so they are both top and side opening. The top door access provides a way to check the camera without disturbing the nest and nest can be checked through the side door without disturbing the camera. Most nest boxes are either top or side opening, not both.

The cameras are mounted to the nest box lid by screwing the back of the ABS camera enclosure to the lid. Then we put the camera into the enclosure and used the tiny preset screws to tighten the enclosure. We also added some electrical tape around each side of the camera enclosure to ensure water will not seep into the enclosure. Although, because of the temperature changes in the nest box, electrical tape does not always stick well.

UPDATE: We are currently researching super low light color video cameras to install in the nest boxes. Check back soon to see what we find.

 

Monochrome micro-video board
camera with 6 LED I/R Illuminators.

 

Box #21 with camera attached to top of lid former design in 2000. Please see top of this page for new design.

Phase 4:

The final finishing touches.

After, we can't remember how many days, we are almost finished. All that is left for the project completion is splicing transformers with the speaker wires and splicing connectors with the video cables in the lab. We used the recommended type transformers for the camera power: Input-120 VAC 60 Hz 15W. Output- 12 VDC 500 mA. The video cables are then plugged into a black and white quad splitter which then is plugged into the computer. The quad splitter was purchased from www.supercircuits.com . This particular quad splitter has four camera inputs. 

UPDATE: We now use the Axis 2400 Video Server instead of the quad splitter. The AXIS 2400 is a high-performance video server designed for professional surveillance applications. It can network up to four analog cameras which is a cost-effective single-box solution for transmitting digital video over intranet networks or the Internet.


 

Quad Splitter (No longer used)


Axis Video Server

All of our hard work paid off.

The day after we finished camera installation project on April 30th 2000, a pair of bluebirds starting building their nest in box #31. Another bird or birds started building in box #21 and then stopped a couple days later.

As of June 4, box #21 is still not being used. Nest box #31 had six nestlings in it which were eaten by a gopher snake on May 31.

I (Sheri) nailed the nest boxes shut only to find, upon return, that another gopher snake was sticking its head out of the nest box. This means that the snake entered the nest box through the entry hole. Another trip to the hardware store.

Both trees now have shade cloth stapled around the base of the trees extending to the top of the nest boxes. The cloth is stapled securely on the bottom to prevent the snake from sliding underneath the cloth. The shade cloth is very smooth so the snakes should not get enough traction to get up the tree.

Nest box #31 is mounted on an old, large incense cedar with a large trunk base and deeply furrowed bark . The bark along with the PVC probably aided the snake to climb up the tree. After nesting season is over, we will move the PVC away from the bark.

By the way, a few days after the snake predation, a pair of violet-green swallows moved into the nest box. To see pictures of their nest and nestlings visit the Violet-green Swallow website.

YEAR 2001 NESTING SEASON

In light of the unsuccessful nestbox (with cameras) season we had last year, I have made some changes to the boxes this season.

Starting in mid-March I took nest box #31 and box #21 off their host trees and mounted them on metal poles. Please see the right-hand sidebar for updated pictures. In addition to mounting the boxes poles, I have added an outside electrical junction box on the back of each nest box. This solves the problem of having all the extra wires and connections inside the nest box.

I have wrapped aluminum dome shades (baffles) below the bottom of the nest boxes to prevent snakes and squirrels from climbing up the pole. I have also made sure that the poles are placed at least 10 feet away from the nearby trees. I have cut any branches that may be used by predators to access the boxes.

-Sheri Lubin

 




Box #21 (2001)


Box #31 (2001)

 

Sheri Lubin 2002